valcani Glossary

A

Akoya pearl

A cultured saltwater pearl from the Pinctada fucata oyster, grown mainly in Japan and China. Akoya pearls are typically 6 to 9 mm, very round and prized for their high lustre.Jewellery

Asscher cut

A square step cut with cropped corners and deep, concentric facets that create a hall-of-mirrors effect. It was developed in Amsterdam in the early twentieth century.Jewellery

Atelier

A workshop or studio where garments, jewellery or other objects are designed and made by hand. The French word is used widely in fashion and fine jewellery.People & Brands

Automatic movement

A mechanical movement wound by a rotor that turns with the motion of the wrist. The self-winding principle dates back to the eighteenth century.Watches

B

Baroque pearl

A pearl with an irregular, non-spherical shape. No two are alike, and their uneven surfaces often show especially lively lustre.Jewellery

Bench

The goldsmith's workbench, with a wooden bench peg at the front and a leather apron beneath to catch filings. Working at the bench means making pieces by hand.People & Brands

Bespoke

Made from a first, individual pattern to one client's measurements and wishes, with several fittings along the way. The term is most closely linked with tailoring.People & Brands

Bezel setting

A setting in which a thin rim of metal encircles the stone and holds it securely. It is smooth to the touch, protective and well suited to active hands.Jewellery

Bias cut

Fabric cut diagonally across the grain so that it drapes and follows the body softly. The technique is closely associated with fluid evening dresses of the 1930s.Fashion

Bouclé

A yarn, or a fabric woven from it, with small loops on the surface that give a nubbly, textured hand. The name comes from the French for curled.Fashion

Box calf

Calfskin with a smooth, dense surface finished to a soft gloss. It holds its shape well and is favoured for structured handbags and fine shoes.Accessories

Brilliant cut

A faceting style designed to return as much light and sparkle as possible. The round brilliant usually has 57 or 58 facets, and its modern proportions date back to 1919.Jewellery

C

Cabochon

A gemstone shaped with a smooth, domed top and no facets. The cut suits opaque and translucent stones such as turquoise, opal and moonstone.Jewellery

Carat, gold

A measure of gold purity in parts of 24. Pure gold is 24 carat, while 18 carat gold contains 75 per cent gold and is stamped 750.Jewellery

Carat, weight

The unit of weight for gemstones. One carat equals 0.2 grams and is divided into 100 points.Jewellery

Cashmere

The fine, soft undercoat of cashmere goats, combed or gathered in spring, mainly in Inner Mongolia and Mongolia. Its fibres typically measure around 14 to 19 microns.Fashion

Cathedral veil

One of the longest classic bridal veils, trailing well beyond the hem of the dress along the floor. It suits formal ceremonies and grand spaces.Bridal

Charmeuse

A lightweight satin-weave fabric, traditionally silk, with a lustrous face and a matte back. It drapes fluidly and is a favourite for slip dresses and blouses.Fashion

Chronograph

A watch with a stopwatch function, started, stopped and reset with pushers on the side of the case. Many chronographs carry a tachymeter scale for measuring speed.Watches

Chronometer

A watch whose precision has been tested and certified by an official body over several days, in different positions and at different temperatures.Watches

Claw setting

A setting in which small metal claws, usually four or six, grip the stone and raise it above the band. It allows light to reach the stone from many angles.Jewellery

Collier

From the French word for necklace, a term for an elaborate necklace, often one that lies close around the base of the neck.Jewellery

Complication

Any function of a watch beyond the display of hours, minutes and seconds, such as a date, a moonphase or a chronograph.Watches

Corozo

A hard, ivory-coloured material from the dried nut of the tagua palm, used for fine buttons. It takes dye well and shows a subtle natural grain.Fashion

Corundum

The mineral of ruby and sapphire, ranking 9 on the Mohs scale. Red corundum is called ruby, and every other colour is called sapphire.Jewellery

Court profile

A wedding band shape rounded on both the outside and the inside, often called a comfort fit. It slides easily over the knuckle and sits gently on the finger.Bridal

Crepe de chine

A light silk fabric with a softly crinkled, matte surface created by tightly twisted yarns. It drapes gracefully and is widely used for blouses and linings.Fashion

Cultured pearl

A pearl that forms after a nucleus or a small piece of tissue is placed inside an oyster or mussel by hand. Almost all pearls sold today are cultured.Jewellery

Cupro

A regenerated cellulose fibre made from cotton linter, the short fibres that cling to cotton seeds. It is smooth, breathable and a classic choice for linings.Fashion

E

Escapement

The mechanism that releases the energy of the mainspring in small, regular steps and keeps the balance wheel oscillating. It produces the familiar tick of a mechanical watch.Watches

Eternity ring

A band set with a continuous line of matching stones, either all the way round or across the front. It is often given to mark an anniversary or the birth of a child.Bridal

F

Filigree

Delicate openwork made from fine, often twisted wires soldered together into lace-like patterns.Jewellery

Floating canvas

A layer of canvas, traditionally containing horsehair, stitched rather than fused inside the front of a tailored jacket. It moulds to the body over time and lets the cloth move naturally.Fashion

French seam

A seam in which the raw edges are enclosed by a second line of stitching, leaving a clean finish on both sides. It suits fine and sheer fabrics.Fashion

Full-grain leather

Leather that keeps the complete top layer of the hide with its natural grain intact. It is the strongest grade and develops a rich patina over the years.Accessories

G

GMT

A complication that shows a second time zone, usually with an extra hand that circles the dial once every 24 hours. The name refers to Greenwich Mean Time.Watches

H

Hallmark

An official mark struck on precious metal to guarantee its fineness, applied in some countries by an independent assay office. The word comes from Goldsmiths' Hall in London.Jewellery

Halo setting

A setting in which a ring of small stones surrounds a centre stone, adding brilliance and making it appear larger. A hidden halo sits beneath the centre stone instead.Bridal

Haute couture

A protected designation in France for made-to-measure fashion from houses that meet strict criteria, overseen by the Paris federation of couture and fashion. The garments are made largely by hand.Fashion

L

Lost-wax casting

An ancient method in which a wax model is encased in heat-resistant investment, melted out in a kiln and replaced with molten metal. It reproduces fine detail faithfully.Jewellery

Lustre

The way light reflects from the surface of a pearl or gemstone. In pearls, high lustre means sharp, bright reflections and a deep inner glow.Jewellery

M

Made to order

Produced only once it has been ordered, usually from an existing design with a choice of size, material or finish.People & Brands

Mainspring

The coiled spring that stores energy in a mechanical watch. As it slowly unwinds, it drives the gear train and the escapement.Watches

Mantilla

A Spanish lace veil or scarf worn over the head and shoulders, often held by a tall comb. It frames the face softly and is traditional at Spanish weddings.Bridal

Merino

Fine wool from merino sheep, raised especially in Australia and New Zealand. It regulates temperature, resists odour and is soft enough to wear next to the skin.Fashion

Milgrain

A border of tiny metal beads along the edge of a band or setting, giving a soft, vintage texture.Jewellery

Mohs scale

A scale from 1 to 10 that ranks minerals by their resistance to scratching. Diamond stands at 10, corundum at 9 and emerald at 7.5 to 8.Jewellery

Momme

A Japanese unit used to express the weight of silk fabric. A higher momme number indicates a denser, heavier and usually more durable silk.Fashion

Moonphase

A complication that shows the phases of the moon through a small aperture in the dial, following the synodic month of about 29.5 days.Watches

N

Nacre

The iridescent substance, built from fine layers of aragonite, that molluscs secrete to form pearls and line their shells. Thick, even nacre gives a pearl its lustre and durability.Jewellery

P

Parure

A matching set of jewellery, traditionally a necklace, earrings, a bracelet and a brooch. A smaller set is called a demi-parure.Jewellery

Pavé

A setting in which many small stones sit closely together, held by tiny beads of metal, so that the surface appears paved with light.Jewellery

Perpetual calendar

A complication that accounts for months of different lengths and for leap years. It typically needs no correction until 2100, which is not a leap year.Watches

Polarised lens

A sunglass lens with a filter that blocks horizontally reflected light, reducing glare from water, snow and roads.Accessories

Power reserve

The length of time a fully wound mechanical watch runs before it stops. Many modern movements offer around 40 to 80 hours.Watches

Q

Quartz movement

A battery-powered movement in which a quartz crystal oscillates 32,768 times per second. It is typically accurate to within a few seconds per month.Watches

R

Ready-to-wear

Clothing made in standard sizes and sold finished, rather than made to individual measurements. The French term prêt-à-porter means the same.Fashion

Rhodium plating

A thin layer of rhodium, a bright white metal of the platinum group, applied to white gold for a brighter finish. It wears gradually and can be renewed by a jeweller.Jewellery

S

Saddle stitch

A hand stitch sewn with two needles passing through the same holes from opposite sides. If one thread breaks, the other still holds the seam.Accessories

Saffiano

Leather pressed with a fine cross-hatched pattern and finished with a protective coating, which makes it durable and resistant to scratches.Accessories

Selvedge

The tightly woven, self-finished edge running along both sides of a length of fabric, which keeps it from fraying.Fashion

Shaped band

A wedding band curved or notched to sit flush against an engagement ring whose setting would otherwise leave a gap. It is also called a contoured or fitted band.Bridal

Solitaire

A ring set with a single stone, most often a diamond. The six-claw solitaire became a classic engagement ring design in the late nineteenth century.Bridal

Step cut

A cut with long, rectangular facets arranged in parallel rows like steps. Emerald, Asscher and baguette cuts are step cuts, valued for the way they show clarity.Jewellery

Sweetheart neckline

A neckline shaped like the top of a heart, curving over the bust and dipping at the centre. It is a favourite for wedding gowns and evening dresses.Bridal

T

Toile

A trial version of a garment, usually made in inexpensive cotton calico, used to test the pattern and fit before the final fabric is cut.Fashion

Tourbillon

A rotating cage that carries the escapement and balance wheel, designed to average out the effect of gravity on accuracy. Abraham-Louis Breguet patented it in 1801.Watches

Trunk show

A short event at which a designer or maker presents a collection directly to clients, often in a boutique or private setting, and takes orders.People & Brands

V

Vegetable tanning

A traditional tanning method using tannins from plants, such as bark and wood. Vegetable-tanned leather is firm at first and develops a rich patina over time.Accessories

Vermeil

Sterling silver coated with a layer of gold, also known as silver gilt.Jewellery

Vicuna

The rarest of the fine animal fibres, from the vicuna, a wild relative of the llama protected in the Andes. Its fibre is exceptionally fine, light and warm.Fashion

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